On my laptop 11.1 with a modified kernel and KDE3.5 (because I work with it).
On my home PC: 11.3 with KDE 4.4.1 (I think this is the one that comes with the original repositories). It serves me to see when a change for me will be indicated on the laptop. As you see, I am still with 3.5 on the laptop. The main blocker is the unsatisfactory core application KDE PIM that does not present the same beautiful functionality up to now as in 3.5
Gnome 2.32 on the laptop, I tried Gnome 3 - it looks very slick but it doesn’t quite work for me and KDE is a little too sluggish on it for my taste, I will be moving to Xfce if and when Gnome 2 is phased out.
I’m running Gnome 3 atm also, and for he most part I’m absolutely loving it. However, I feel the same, I sincerely enjoy tinkering with things, especially how my desktop feels and it’s not as easy as I’d like to under Gnome 3, but I think I’ve gotten there. If you look at Web Upd8: Ubuntu / Linux blog they cover quite a lot of cool shell extensions, also Malcolm has done a fantastic job of packaging some of the better ones.