in the last few days I have been testing Gnome on my computer with HiDPI display. Everything works so far, but the font of QT programs (Signal, Vivaldi, Super Productivity, Plasma-Apps) is a little bit blurry.
I found the following settings: In the Settings-App you can set the scaling-factor. I set it to 175 %.
I also found the font-scaling in the Tweaks-App.
The best setting yet was to set the global scaling to 100 % and increase the font-scaling. But with this settings all system-elements (i.e. buttons) are very small.
@guckuck have you used the experimental mutter features to enable scale-monitor-framebuffer? Fire up dconf-editor and search on mutter you will see the feature and scroll down to add/set.