you need an app to charge an iphone?
doesn’t the usb standard say something about voltage and currents those are hardware not OS dependent, I just plugin an android and it charges it doesn’t matter if I’m on opensuse or 7 or xp
iphone 6+ and 7 charge on leap 15 and tumbleweed though slower
compared to the real charger. The machine should be in presentation mode
else when it suspend it will stop charging. I have no iphone 8 and 10 to try.
Yes, a good quality usually thicker) “sync” vs a thinner “charging” cable can make a difference.
Also, based on related links to that “ipad charge” utility, it also sounds like you need a higher voltage/wattage USB port… Which because of all the new “Quick Charge” devices using Qualcomm chips, I decided to buy a USB line meter (reads voltage, amperage, watgage, Amps/sec, a timer, more).
Your old, “conventional” USB ports might support only 3.5V and 1.3 amps (approx 5 watts) which nowadays is puny.
Around 5-8 years ago, some “Charging” USB ports support 5V/ 9 watts, my HP laptop (2013) has one such port.
QC 2.0 and 3.0 (most phones with Qualcomm chips) today is supposed to support up to 17 watts and my phone does charge at 12 watts (not great but way better than at 5 watts) when I use a special “QC” wall plug.
And Qualcomm has published specs that are supposed to support 36 watts but I don’t know any devices that conform with that spec yet.
Although not today, with the recent Apple/Qualcomm accord I’d expect that next year’s iphones and ipads will be QC devices, too.
I’m a bit surprised at what “ipad charge” is supposed to do but then I can’t remember any USB port supporting only 500milliamps (about half a watt). As I noted above AFAIK even slowest USB ports are supposed to support about 1.3 watts, almost 3x faster than what the utility is supposed to fix. Maybe the utility works only on really ancient hardware, older than I know about.
I do not recommend installing and running the “ipad charge” utility in any situation except on the chance you are running on very ancient hardware…
I can’t think of any hardware I’d encounter today that’d likely be configured to support only 500 miliamperes by default.
If you can’t look up the technical specs of your hardware, then I’d recommend getting yourself a meter like what I did, you can get a cheap one that will only check old USB ports for less than $5 (A meter that supports the new and future QC wattage can cost a lot more although mine still cost <$10).